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fangrrl_squees*rolls up sleeves, again*
This is partially about costuming, partially about gender and partially about fangrrl being the sort of person who overthinks things on a regular basis.
I've been muttering, off-and-on, about the Lucy Saxon As The Master costume for, oh gods, it must be over a year. But there are challenges. A lot of them. And not just ones like oh my god, that coat's going to require 7 yards of fine wool sort of challenges.
Thanks to that oh-so-cheesy epilogue bit in Last of the Time Lords, I'm cheerfully in the camp that believes the next time we see The Master,he she will be played by Alexandra Moen.
Costume speculations are, of course, inevitable. And I like creating costumes for characters yet-unseen (or described only in vague terms, in print) as that gives me a lot of room to muck about and have fun.
Before I get into specifics, here is a small sampling of the thoughts that are eating my brain about the whole concept.
- As far as us cheerful viewers know, The Master has always been (outwardly) male for all of his, erm, 15 lives.
- And now he ain't.
- Imagine you're in that situation - several hundred, possibly over a thousand years - identifying as a fella, and then you try putting on a skirt. No matter how advanced your civilization is, I think some deep-rooted ganglion in your brain is going to shriek "That's not right!" despite the fact that the mirror into which one is looking shows that one is, indeed, female.
I'm not going to get into a bunch of character meta about surely The Master made the choice to go hijack a female body and is therefore quite comfortable with the idea because that's something we couldfanwank talk about for ages, and I'll be glad to do so - in another entry. Short version: my fanon for the decision is a combination of 'needs must' (Lucy's available) and 'my mind is wired so bloody differently from any other person's, don't even try to speculate about my reasoning because you simply can't Get It but, yes, it's something I chose to do'. Ow. My head is hurting, already. Anyway...
So you've got this character who has always been male now faced with being female. He might, indeed, be quite comfortable with it emotionally and intellectually but that doesn't mean they've sorted what to wear - not yet, at least.
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jblum made a point about the Master being a bit, well, flamboyant and probably quite keen on playing it to the hilt. I think that's a fair point, but I'd argue flamboyant - distinctive, certainly but, with the exception of Roberts!Master, not too flamboyant, I'd say. Also, I would prefer to leave the absolutely outrageous woman overdressed for success role to Servalan. No-one could come close to her utter fabulousness and while I'm on the subject, thank you, Servalan, for not wearing a godawful sci-fi interpretation of a late 1970s/early 1980s power suit whilst Empress of known space. When you've got it, flaunt it!
*ahem*
After too many hours of poking and prodding at the idea, I think a costume would combine what us early 21st century folks would consider traditionally feminine and masculine elements. As in, the character would find certain fabrics and silhouettes a comfort, whilst simultaneously wary of going too far in one direction or another. A slightly insane hodge-podge would result.
(Again, let's not go into the debate about 'what is feminine? What determines masculinity?' because we'll be here for days)
In my mind, there are two ways of interpreting a costume for Lucy!Master. The first is creating a costume for Alexandra Moen and the other features a certain petite Brit of y'all's acquaintance. Talk about two different body types, oy...
Moen, I'd retailor Simm's overcoat (it's not a security blanket, it isn't!), nicely-tailored, slim-legged, dart front (death to pleats!) trousers with a waistband resting just above the hip (but not hip huggers, v. formal style, not hipster), and a cream-colored knitted silk jersey with a high collar and long sleeves. Definitely get her away from the boxy suits (and, why yes, I'm a control freak halter-neck dresses) of the pre-LotTL days. I'd also give the woman a few peanut-butter sandwiches because she's too skinny but that's a topic for another day...
And then there's yours truly. As I've said before, I'm a hobbit, not an elf, and I'd rather costume in a way to play up my curves, rather than try to hide them. I've tried the hiding route and it just doesn't work. I'm fooling no-one - and I tend to look very dumpy whenever I try.
So, all those ideas applicable to the slender blonde actress? Out the window with 'em.
Trousers. Gotta be trousers. I'm sorry, but there's too much running down corridors - even for The Master - to make a skirt practical, although I wouldn't rule out culottes of a sufficiently drapey material, so it's not immediately apparent that they're culottes. But probably these pants in a fine black wool, because the pattern falls squarely under co-opted male fashion and I like the old-fashioned high-waisted cut of them. And they have pockets. Very important, pockets.
Shirt. As mentioned for another costume concept, the design on the upper right simply must be worn by a female Time Lord. But I wouldn't do the contrasting sides, I'd make the whole thing out of a single fabric. I'm thinking well-washed sapphire/black cross-woven tafetta - just a hint of shininess to it, but nothing too outré - and some embroidery on the collar (Ainley!Master homage, there). I'd change the cuff to a more masculine style - that extra-long fold-back sorta-Regency cuff, the proper name of which I forget, but I've got a shirt with 'em, so I can copy that pretty easily. If I can find Ouroboros cufflinks, great.
A coat. There's got to be a coat, and this is where the gibbering really starts. Something princess-seamed and definitely girly (I've made that coat, it's as girly as all get-out and I love it because a princess seam is flattering to my build) but made from a more 'masculine' fabric. Or something a bit more boxy and vaguely masculine but in a lighter fabric - maybe even a subtly patterned brocade? Again, it'd have to be a dark color, and whilst I'd default to black, there's no escaping that, er, it's a very dark ensemble, so far. Again, with only occasional exceptions did the Master vary beyond dark/monochrome palettes himself but there's too much of a good thing.
(annoyingly enough, I can't find any long overcoat patterns designed for men. Apparently there's no demand, dammit.)
I spent a lot of time staring at overcoats on the trains, yesterday and today. Unfortunately, it seems that - in this town, at least - the difference between a long overcoat for men and one for women is a slight tweak in the tailoring - bringing in the waist, adjusting the shoulders - and women's coats come in a somewhat broader palette. Oh, and I've noticed that more men's coats have a back vent than women's coats and that's a rant I'll save for another day. Apparently women still aren't expected to take big steps when walking, or cross their legs when they sit, or something.
Keeping my body-shape in mind, I should go for something that falls under the feminine/co-opted male fashion look - like the coat mentioned, above, this pattern (which I bought when I had a mad idea to do a costume from Velvet Goldmine but that's another story) and then muck about with subtle gender cues in terms of fabric choice - a heavier wool, bright scarlet red lining (nod to Simm!Master, there). But coats are, increasingly, unisex, so it makes it difficult to do without abandoning subtlety, entirely. But a coat's important. We rarely see a Master in just his shirt sleeves, y'know? I'd have to have a coat, and don't ask me why, but I'm all for it being a full-cut (go on, bung another two yards in!) overcoat. I think it's the Simm fan in me, creeping out - and maybe, just maybe, a grudging bit of luv for flamboyant-Roberts!Master.
And, no, I won't wear a nehru/turtleneck jacket. Talk about a style designed that looks bad on me. Covering up my bosom with yards of fabric? Bad idea. Besides, it won't go with the shirt.
I love the 70s-ish madness of this coat, but I think it would ultimately fail with the costume concept. And speaking of omg! but it won't work, dig the coat on the right. Talk about Ainley-luv, but it would hide the shirt and, again, it's not a look that works for me. I've a long torso (for my height), a thick waist and the oft-mentioned bosom. It'd look fabulous on some costumers of my acquaintance, but not me.
Oh, and I should make it clear that I concede that women have a far easier time co-opting male fashion - it's been done for centuries - than vice-versa. Otherwise, no-one would give a damn about Eddie Izzard's wardrobe. So, yeah, doing the co-opted masculine garments with 'feminine' fabric/tailoring could be considered a bit of a copout on my part but, well, there's my comfort level to keep in mind. As I've said, short of surgery, I'm not made for crossplay/gender-shifting.
There's more roiling around my head, but I really need to get to work, now.
Thoughts? Opinions? Cool compresses for my overheated forehead?
This is partially about costuming, partially about gender and partially about fangrrl being the sort of person who overthinks things on a regular basis.
I've been muttering, off-and-on, about the Lucy Saxon As The Master costume for, oh gods, it must be over a year. But there are challenges. A lot of them. And not just ones like oh my god, that coat's going to require 7 yards of fine wool sort of challenges.
Thanks to that oh-so-cheesy epilogue bit in Last of the Time Lords, I'm cheerfully in the camp that believes the next time we see The Master,
Costume speculations are, of course, inevitable. And I like creating costumes for characters yet-unseen (or described only in vague terms, in print) as that gives me a lot of room to muck about and have fun.
Before I get into specifics, here is a small sampling of the thoughts that are eating my brain about the whole concept.
- As far as us cheerful viewers know, The Master has always been (outwardly) male for all of his, erm, 15 lives.
- And now he ain't.
- Imagine you're in that situation - several hundred, possibly over a thousand years - identifying as a fella, and then you try putting on a skirt. No matter how advanced your civilization is, I think some deep-rooted ganglion in your brain is going to shriek "That's not right!" despite the fact that the mirror into which one is looking shows that one is, indeed, female.
I'm not going to get into a bunch of character meta about surely The Master made the choice to go hijack a female body and is therefore quite comfortable with the idea because that's something we could
So you've got this character who has always been male now faced with being female. He might, indeed, be quite comfortable with it emotionally and intellectually but that doesn't mean they've sorted what to wear - not yet, at least.
jblum made a point about the Master being a bit, well, flamboyant and probably quite keen on playing it to the hilt. I think that's a fair point, but I'd argue flamboyant - distinctive, certainly but, with the exception of Roberts!Master, not too flamboyant, I'd say. Also, I would prefer to leave the absolutely outrageous woman overdressed for success role to Servalan. No-one could come close to her utter fabulousness and while I'm on the subject, thank you, Servalan, for not wearing a godawful sci-fi interpretation of a late 1970s/early 1980s power suit whilst Empress of known space. When you've got it, flaunt it! *ahem*
After too many hours of poking and prodding at the idea, I think a costume would combine what us early 21st century folks would consider traditionally feminine and masculine elements. As in, the character would find certain fabrics and silhouettes a comfort, whilst simultaneously wary of going too far in one direction or another. A slightly insane hodge-podge would result.
(Again, let's not go into the debate about 'what is feminine? What determines masculinity?' because we'll be here for days)
In my mind, there are two ways of interpreting a costume for Lucy!Master. The first is creating a costume for Alexandra Moen and the other features a certain petite Brit of y'all's acquaintance. Talk about two different body types, oy...
Moen, I'd retailor Simm's overcoat (it's not a security blanket, it isn't!), nicely-tailored, slim-legged, dart front (death to pleats!) trousers with a waistband resting just above the hip (but not hip huggers, v. formal style, not hipster), and a cream-colored knitted silk jersey with a high collar and long sleeves. Definitely get her away from the boxy suits (and, why yes, I'm a control freak halter-neck dresses) of the pre-LotTL days. I'd also give the woman a few peanut-butter sandwiches because she's too skinny but that's a topic for another day...
And then there's yours truly. As I've said before, I'm a hobbit, not an elf, and I'd rather costume in a way to play up my curves, rather than try to hide them. I've tried the hiding route and it just doesn't work. I'm fooling no-one - and I tend to look very dumpy whenever I try.
So, all those ideas applicable to the slender blonde actress? Out the window with 'em.
Trousers. Gotta be trousers. I'm sorry, but there's too much running down corridors - even for The Master - to make a skirt practical, although I wouldn't rule out culottes of a sufficiently drapey material, so it's not immediately apparent that they're culottes. But probably these pants in a fine black wool, because the pattern falls squarely under co-opted male fashion and I like the old-fashioned high-waisted cut of them. And they have pockets. Very important, pockets.
Shirt. As mentioned for another costume concept, the design on the upper right simply must be worn by a female Time Lord. But I wouldn't do the contrasting sides, I'd make the whole thing out of a single fabric. I'm thinking well-washed sapphire/black cross-woven tafetta - just a hint of shininess to it, but nothing too outré - and some embroidery on the collar (Ainley!Master homage, there). I'd change the cuff to a more masculine style - that extra-long fold-back sorta-Regency cuff, the proper name of which I forget, but I've got a shirt with 'em, so I can copy that pretty easily. If I can find Ouroboros cufflinks, great.
A coat. There's got to be a coat, and this is where the gibbering really starts. Something princess-seamed and definitely girly (I've made that coat, it's as girly as all get-out and I love it because a princess seam is flattering to my build) but made from a more 'masculine' fabric. Or something a bit more boxy and vaguely masculine but in a lighter fabric - maybe even a subtly patterned brocade? Again, it'd have to be a dark color, and whilst I'd default to black, there's no escaping that, er, it's a very dark ensemble, so far. Again, with only occasional exceptions did the Master vary beyond dark/monochrome palettes himself but there's too much of a good thing.
(annoyingly enough, I can't find any long overcoat patterns designed for men. Apparently there's no demand, dammit.)
I spent a lot of time staring at overcoats on the trains, yesterday and today. Unfortunately, it seems that - in this town, at least - the difference between a long overcoat for men and one for women is a slight tweak in the tailoring - bringing in the waist, adjusting the shoulders - and women's coats come in a somewhat broader palette. Oh, and I've noticed that more men's coats have a back vent than women's coats and that's a rant I'll save for another day. Apparently women still aren't expected to take big steps when walking, or cross their legs when they sit, or something.
Keeping my body-shape in mind, I should go for something that falls under the feminine/co-opted male fashion look - like the coat mentioned, above, this pattern (which I bought when I had a mad idea to do a costume from Velvet Goldmine but that's another story) and then muck about with subtle gender cues in terms of fabric choice - a heavier wool, bright scarlet red lining (nod to Simm!Master, there). But coats are, increasingly, unisex, so it makes it difficult to do without abandoning subtlety, entirely. But a coat's important. We rarely see a Master in just his shirt sleeves, y'know? I'd have to have a coat, and don't ask me why, but I'm all for it being a full-cut (go on, bung another two yards in!) overcoat. I think it's the Simm fan in me, creeping out - and maybe, just maybe, a grudging bit of luv for flamboyant-Roberts!Master.
And, no, I won't wear a nehru/turtleneck jacket. Talk about a style designed that looks bad on me. Covering up my bosom with yards of fabric? Bad idea. Besides, it won't go with the shirt.
I love the 70s-ish madness of this coat, but I think it would ultimately fail with the costume concept. And speaking of omg! but it won't work, dig the coat on the right. Talk about Ainley-luv, but it would hide the shirt and, again, it's not a look that works for me. I've a long torso (for my height), a thick waist and the oft-mentioned bosom. It'd look fabulous on some costumers of my acquaintance, but not me.
Oh, and I should make it clear that I concede that women have a far easier time co-opting male fashion - it's been done for centuries - than vice-versa. Otherwise, no-one would give a damn about Eddie Izzard's wardrobe. So, yeah, doing the co-opted masculine garments with 'feminine' fabric/tailoring could be considered a bit of a copout on my part but, well, there's my comfort level to keep in mind. As I've said, short of surgery, I'm not made for crossplay/gender-shifting.
There's more roiling around my head, but I really need to get to work, now.
Thoughts? Opinions? Cool compresses for my overheated forehead?
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no subject
Date: 2008-12-05 08:17 pm (UTC)Mostly I want to say, that I don't think Roberts!Master is as flamboyant as it first seems 'cause think - he's basically just got the clothes he nicked from the paramedic, right? So that Gallifreyan
monstrositygarb must have come from the Doctor's TARDIS. Which means the Doctor had it about somewhere. So I've seen that "I always dress for the occasion~" scene as more of a "...haha, look what I found in your closet and am mocking you with >D" kind of thing XD;BUT I DIGRESS.
You've put a lot of thought into this, and I'm really intrigued about it. I could see Lucy!Master in a skirt, but only when she was sure, absolutely sure there'd be no running about. So only rarely 8D This is a neat idea, I'm looking forward to seeing how it all comes about.
no subject
Date: 2008-12-05 08:23 pm (UTC)Blimey. I never actually considered that interpretation before. I think I was too busy shrieking "What is he wearing??" to actually think about it. Oops.
I love that interpretation and I shall adopt it as my own from now on.
Although, to be fair, my opinion of Roberts!Master - and the TVM as a whole - has mellowed, remarkably, over the passage of time. I laugh more than I wince, now. Mostly. ;)
could see Lucy!Master in a skirt, but only when she was sure [...] there'd be no running about
*nod* dressing for the occasion, forsooth.
My original idea, way back when, involved a mid-calf-length gored skirt with of some dark fabric with inverted-pleat inset gored panels (I don't know if that's the right term, but they'd be almost invisible when the garment hangs straight, does that make sense) of a bright scarlet red. Yards and yards of fabric, of course.
Maybe I should tinker with that idea, some more...
no subject
Date: 2008-12-05 08:41 pm (UTC)I enjoyed the TVM - more as a, "Aww" 'cause I liked McGann, but I also think it's a horrid introduction to anyone flipping through channels and trying to watch part of it who had no history. o_O
Yeah, I know what you mean. It sounds neat, oh man, you have so many neat possibilities 8D
Wandering Away From The Subject...
Date: 2008-12-05 09:00 pm (UTC)Honestly, Big Finish really saved the Eighth Doctor for me. I was left so very cold by the TVM but I'm a mad fangirl for the audios...
Re: Wandering Away From The Subject...
Date: 2008-12-05 09:11 pm (UTC)Re: Wandering Away From The Subject...
Date: 2008-12-05 09:22 pm (UTC)With the Eighth Doctor stories, though, it's pretty key to listen to them in order of release. :)
Re: Wandering Away From The Subject...
Date: 2008-12-05 09:26 pm (UTC)I do love me some chronological continuity, so that's usually not a worry! But thanks for the heads up, 'cause now I'll be sure to :DDDD
no subject
Date: 2008-12-05 10:20 pm (UTC)Rationalizing this as him loving playing with the art of disguise is the most sensible way I can think to deal with it. :-)
Even with Simm, I got a bit of a sense of him playing when he adopts the whole sort of New Labour look -- the whole outfit is all part of the massive joke he's pulling on humanity.
So I don't think he'd go all Servalan-for-Servalan's-sake, but whichever persona he was taking on, he'd be just a bit arch about it...
no subject
Date: 2008-12-05 10:32 pm (UTC)I got a bit of a sense of him playing when he adopts the whole sort of New Labour look
Oh, absolutely! I fell off my sofa, laughing, when I saw the suit and wondering why didn't they just flash a subtitle saying "Note for American viewers: this is a pisstake" but I suppose there's no explaining SOME things. ;)
but whichever persona he was taking on, he'd be just a bit arch about it...
*nod* absolutely. As a long-time LARPer, I caught myself thinking about characterization, as I trudged to work today and promptly had to *thwap* myself with the metaphorical rolled-up-newspaper as that's putting entirely too much thought into an entirely hypothetical project. Besides, it's not like I've got a Gallifreyan-crackfic-of-a-LARP that I could take the character to - and god help us all if I did! ;)
Hmm
Date: 2008-12-05 09:46 pm (UTC)If I were consuming for an actual theatrical performance, I'd do whatever I could to downply the costume, because it's would be more about The Character.
However, when the costume IS the point, The Master is a tough one to feminize.
My issue with FemmyFour is that Four is, well, slopp and "unsexy". My interpretation of the female form of that ended up looking sort of like a turn-of-the-century charwoman. Efforts to tart up the costume just didn't sit right with me viscerally.
I think there's a fine line between FemmyMaster and a campy Anne Robinson.
Re: Hmm
Date: 2008-12-05 09:51 pm (UTC)Indeed! I must admit, such a concept would be something I'd probably try a little to roleplay with, rather than my usual shlubbing around the hallways bit. Fortunately, the odds of finding good sports at a convention are pretty high. ;)
I think there's a fine line between FemmyMaster and a campy Anne Robinson.
You're right. Oh dear lord, you're right. Thanks for articulating what had me backing off from some ideas - and it's certainly a caution to keep in mind.
I just posted a followup speculating about the usefulness of looting Dior's New Look. That might prove a less-campy way to go. I'm not sure. GAH!
Re: Hmm
Date: 2008-12-06 05:45 pm (UTC)This might be godawful in the light of day, but here goes:
Knee-length knickers (the cut on the Folkwear Hollywood pants pattern is good - not plus-four-like at all) made of brownish tweed, a closely tailored vest in the closest ersatz one can find to any of the eeeyowch plaids in Four's wardrobe. A similarly-closely tailored button-down shirt in the lovely fabric of your choice and, as for shoes, I'd be inclined to be a bit daring and pair some brown leather knee-high-boots with the knickers, but that's just me.
Do a crocheted girly-version of the scarf (maybe with that funky, fluffy mohair that's so bitchy tow ork with yet so popular at the moment?) and, of course, the requisite hat.
Ditching the overcoat would deal with a lot of the char-lady factor, I think.
The trick would lie, of course, in the cutting. You'd want it nicely tailored but not sexily so, no...